Jewelry from India shines again by India’s bold young

The jewelry market is full of fine specimens from across the globe — and among the most sparkling are those made by India’s bold young designers, who are carving out a niche for themselves in this competitive field.
The latest to turn heads with her enticingly designed jewels is Neha Dani, currently based in New Delhi.
In an exclusive interview with Arab News, she discussed what drove her to become a jewelry designer and what it means to her.
Dani has always been intrigued by a well-made, intricate piece of jewelry. After all, India traditionally has had many techniques for jewelry making, from old cut diamonds cased in beautifully enameled gold, to die-struck and embossed temple jewelry.
“I also traveled extensively as a child and was fortunate to experience some very beautiful pieces of jewelry in some of the most prominent museums. Along with my fascination with the designs, my overall curiosity about the gemstones brought me to jewelry designing and making,” she says.
This fascination promptly led her to study gemology, techniques of wax carving and jewelry designing at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Determined to acquire as much knowledge as possible, she went on to learn even more about gemstones by qualifying at the Gemological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A).
There is no doubt her creations are unique. But what makes them so, and how does she achieve it? “My passion makes them unique,” she says. “I spend hours working and reworking my creations until they seem perfect to me. I am always trying to find that perfect balance which brings out the magic in the metals and gemstones.”
Dani draws inspiration from the intricacies one sees in Indian architecture, Indian paintings and even the weave of fabrics. “My creations are more contemporary in style but with a similar sense of detail,” she says.
“I believe that nature in the form of blossoming flowers, shrinking leaves, the moving clouds, flowing water, breaking ocean waves — they all seem to carry the same emotions. This is the reason why I am so inspired by every form of nature and closely observe it,” she says. “It’s so enriching.”
Sourcing the stones, she tells us, is a tricky business. You need to be very attentive. “It depends on the gemstone as each one has a specific market and it is best to source it from its country of origin if possible,” she says.
Historically, jewelry was worn by aristocratic families as a symbol of ritual and tradition. It was more customary to wear jewelry then but in the 21st century, the major focus is to reflect a style statement or part of one’s personality.
For women, buying jewelry isn’t a trivial thing. It’s something they feel emotionally involved with. They look for extraordinary pieces that express how they feel. “I would say often it is a particular piece that speaks about her as a person, her personality, her style. This is what she wants to have for herself,” Dani says.
Dani’s jewelry is intended for women who are connoisseurs of fine works of art, and who will treasure and wear the pieces with the same passion she shows in creating them.
At present, Dani’s magnificent creations are sought by women from the Middle East where the demand for exquisite pieces is high. As she explains, “As I’m a new brand, I am just getting started in international business, but we had tremendous feedback from a show that we did in Abu Dhabi earlier this year. That has set the tone for great progress in the days to come.”
She also believes that it is important to showcase creative work in high-profile exhibitions since there is an audience which can appreciate all the work that has gone into the collection.
Her latest collection, “Cadence,” is inspired by aquatic plants, coral reefs and the underwater world. “I tried to capture the fluidity and movement of the plants as they sway rhythmically in with water. Their vibrant colors — created with brightly-hued rhodium plating in blues, greens and purples — as well as their movement also symbolize the essence of femininity,” she says.
Her upcoming collection is dramatically different as it is all white — inspired by the ocean waves and their splash. “I chose white to represent the calming rhythm of the sound of ocean waves; a breaking wave is always poetic and romantic. The pieces are very detailed and minutely carved to bring out the wave effect and are enhanced by white round rose-cut diamonds,” she says.
As to why she chose white, she explains, “I think the underwater plant collection – so bright and colorful – followed by an all white, pristine ocean spray collection, captures how each of us has a vibrant inner self and a composed personality on the outside. This is a balance each woman strives for in her life.”
In essence, Dani’s regal touch is witness to how much jewelry designing means to her. “It is a form of expression for me and the wearer,” she says.
Sourc: AFP