Julien Boscus on his first star

After 18 months at the helm of the Parisian restaurant Les Climats, the 33-year-old chef has just obtained his first Michelin star. A student of Yannick Alléno and Pierre Gagnaire, Julien Boscus has no intention of stopping there. But that doesn't keep him from enjoying this "unparalleled" honor.
Where you expecting it?
Yes and no! We knew the inspectors had come by twice. Michael Ellis, the director of the guide, even came to dine in July. So we thought we were getting "good vibes." We met with the staff of the guide last September and, of course, nothing was revealed.
What was the goal in asking for a meeting with Michelin?
Simply to get our name out, as is often done! We have been working relentlessly over the past 18 months, and after Michael Ellis's visit, we thought it would be nice to present our work in detail. From changes in the menu to changes in the staff, we told them everything, and showed them everything! Beyond the cuisine, the dishes, the service, this approach allows one to demonstrate determination, to express motivation, to convey a state of mind.
Was earning this star a goal?
Yes. I arrived at Les Climats in September 2013 ready for battle. [Owner] Denis Jamet didn't put any pressure on me, but after I updated the menu and changed the staff, I thought that we could set out to win this distinction. I chose Les Climats over several other offers because I thought I could make it happen here. The restaurant and the staff began to really take off one year ago, in January 2014. We updated the menu each month, and each time we took it to a new level. Whether it was a dish, the quality of the butter served at the table, the bread, the tableware... We really put a lot of work into everything, especially the menu! Even if our primary goal is profitability, filling the restaurant every day.
Is it the case?
Almost. We serve on average 20 to 25 settings at lunch, 45 in the evening. Ideally, we would need to be at 30/35 and 50. We'll get there!
How many of you are there in the kitchen?
Six! The pastry chef and myself included! There are also two dishwashers who help us to prepare the ingredients in the morning. This is the price to pay for profitability. Each member of the staff contributed to this victory.
You were trained primarily by Pierre Gagnaire and Yannick Alléno. What have you retained from them?
I tried as hard as I could to break away. I didn't want to repeat the cuisine I learned from them. Even if they are still there, on a subconscious level, and always will be. Their influence goes beyond the confines of the cuisine. Yannick Alléno is a leader endowed with great charisma, a strong communicator. Pierre Gagnaire is something of the opposite. An artist. My time with him got off to a rough start. It took me six months to understand his cuisine. Then I had a breakthrough moment and I had a blast. Now, I draw inspiration from all of that to invent and nourish my own style.
What is that style?
I'm young, I'm 33, and I have only been a chef "under my own name" for 16 months! This cuisine is still in development! It is gourmand, complete, sometimes roguish, respectful of ingredients, as much for ethical reasons as for economical ones. It is an identifiable cuisine: the sweetbreads look like sweetbreads, and the steaks as well. I have been at places where they only used the breast of a pigeon. They threw the rest away. At Les Climats, that's not the way we work. An ingredient must be used to the fullest extent possible, as this is a way of respecting the ingredient, the producer... And of being attentive to the profitability of the dishes. A pigeon purchased for €10, plus the work we do, I can't offer it for €20 on the menu.
Does acquiring a Michelin star mean as much today as it did in the past?
Yes. The Michelin [guide] remains a bible, a reference. Of course, websites and social networks are now sources of information, but nothing can match this distinction. It confers an unparalleled prestige... And apparently, a 30% increase in revenues in the year after earning it. Social networks amplify all of that.
Are you aiming for three stars?
It would be pretentious to say so, but I have no intention of stopping here!
Will your prices change?
No, that would be a mistake, we are very competitive and we want to keep it that way.
A few dishes from the à la carte menu:
Vivier-sur-mer, crab, sea bream, razor clams, periwinkles and gray shrimp with vegetables in tosazu sauce.
Burgundy escargot and Tuber Mélanosporum truffle, in a fricassée with country bacon, light and crunchy Ratte potato chiffon with Tuber Mélanosporum truffle.
Wild turbot poached over low heat, smooth cauliflower cream, multicolored tips and Guéméné andouille, white butter sauce spiced with wholegrain mustard.
Mesquer pigeon, roasted breast served rosé, Jerusalem artichoke façon Anna, cabbage from Pontoise cabbage stuffed with leg and liver, ragout sauce.
Richerenches, milk chocolate croquant with black truffle panna cotta, exotic fruit, biscuit and caramelized hazelnuts.
Source: Relaxnews