Rub Al-Khali Camel Expedition 2011

One man's dream has the power to affect many. In this case, it was one Saudi man's dream to relive the past, which brought together six men (three Saudis and three Americans) of different ages and backgrounds. For the Saudis, it was a chance to reconnect; for the Americans, it was to experience anew what few today have done. The effect it had for those who participated will last a lifetime and be spread far and wide to those who didn't as the team included a writer, two professional photographers, a videographer and an archaeologist/geologist from the Dammam Museum. It began as all great journeys do: with careful, meticulous planning. In late 2010, Geraiyan Al-Hajri, a Saudi Aramco construction engineer and the deep-desert expert and visionary behind the trip, began planning the Travel Back in Time caravan. "I wanted for us to reconnect with the past, to recognize the hardships the Bedouins faced and to learn more about how they lived in the Rub Al-Khali," said Al-Hajri. "I began thinking about it two years ago, and last year, I decided it was time to do it and began planning." The trip took place in the Rub Al-Khali, known in English as The Empty Quarter, which is the world's largest uninterrupted sand sea, encompassing most of the southern third of the Arabian Peninsula and covering some 650,000 square kilometers. The team approached the expedition, not with the intention of conquering the desert, but with the intention of passing gently through, knowing that success would come only by living in harmony with nature. The riding team comprised Bradley Wilkinson, Saudi Aramco Public Relations Department; Todd Nims, The King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture; James Duggan, son of Joe Duggan, Saudi Aramco Affairs Research and Advisory Group; Nabiel Al-Shaikh, Dammam Regional Museum; and Fahad Al-Daajani, a freelance photographer from Khafji. In addition, for much of the way, Al-Hajri, a seasoned desert trekker, strolled alongside the camels directing the caravan to its next destination and regaling the team with wonderful stories. Nims, Duggan and Al-Daajani, the young photographers on the team, worked together sharing ideas and techniques as well as swapping cameras and equipment to obtain the very best photos and video footage to document the trip, capture fascinating stories and show the world a life that few follow today. Al-Shaikh, the team's archaeologist/geologist, scoured the land at each stop, collecting both archaeological artifacts and geological indications of what had transpired. Wilkinson recorded it in his ever-filling notebook of fact and perception, as well as the deeply reflective insight the trip provoked. After reviewing the company's Surveying Services Emergency Content Manual, which provides valuable information on what to do in the case of an emergency in the desert, the Dhahran team departed by plane to Haradh. The traveler's prayer over the plane's public address system took on new meaning, as the flight was the first leg of a much bigger adventure. When they arrived at Haradh, they were met by members of Al-Hajri's team, many of who were using their vacation days to support the historic journey. Using a company skid road that Al-Hajri and his crew had built, the travelers were driven about 170 km south to the Nadgan Well where the warm mineral waters coming out of the ground are believed by many to have healing powers. After enjoying the waters, the team drove deeper into the desert to rendezvous with the camels and the support team. At times, it seemed as if the vehicle floated above the surface as the desert sands cushioned the ride. At that point, the final destination, the Umm Al-Hadid meteorite crater, lay about 240 km away. It was expected that the travelers would average about 35 km per day and cover the distance in one week. In the end, the caravan averaged 40 km per day and made the trip in six days. When the team arrived at the camel encampment, they were greeted with a traditional Saudi welcoming dance and qahwa (Saudi coffee spiced with cardamom and dates). The route would pass by wells dug deep into the desert — some by Saudi Aramco and others by the Bedouin themselves. One such well, Bir Hudbah, had been hand dug by the parents of Bakheet Bathan Al-Marri, a respected member of the Al-Marri tribe and the owner of the expedition camels. He and his son, Bathan, provided support throughout and delivered many entertaining stories in the evening around the campfire. Members of the Al-Marri came and went throughout the trip. It seemed that driving in the desert to them was the same as a city dweller driving to their favorite restaurant to enjoy an evening's meal. One night, musicians came to entertain the team with traditional Bedouin songs accompanied by the mournful sound of the rebaba (a stringed instrument played with a bow). On the other evenings, everyone simply met around the campfire telling stories (both traditional and modern), reciting poetry and engaging in lively conversation all the while consuming massive amounts of qahwa, tea and hot milk. Needless to say, sleep came easy at the end of each evening. The caravan followed traditional Bedouin methods of travel with a few modern twists. For safety, the travelers were aided by satellite phones and supported by vehicles that carried food, water, tents and a team that moved the camp each day. On occasion, vehicles got stuck but never the camels that plodded along at a steady pace with the print of their footsteps marking the passage until the blowing sand obliterated any trace. Bir Shanadhir was one of the first destinations, and it proved quite exciting. A sand dune was slowly wrapping around the long dry well site, leaving one to wonder what might lie hidden under the ever-shifting sands. Two millstones and pottery had previously been found at the site, and in no time, the team found an arrowhead, glass and shell beads, broken bits of tools and the handle of a pot. "Bedu typically don't carry pottery and jars," said archaeologist Al-Shaikh. "They prefer skins, so this is quite interesting. I would like to return someday with a team of scientists to spend more time so we could conduct an extensive survey of this area." On the weekend, Galet Al-Aida, chief explorationist, Southern Area Exploration Division; and Sa'id Al-Hajri, chief explorationist, Eastern Area Exploration Division, came to experience the desert in the way of their ancestors. "I was able to get a very close look at the topography while taking my time on the camel, and I got to experience the way the Bedouin traveled a hundred years ago," said Sa'id. He was profoundly influenced by the experience. "I couldn't miss the quietness, stillness and clarity you get from being out here. The silence is so loud, you can't ignore it." The team camped one night near the well of Ubaylah, located at the lowest point of an ancient lake bed. A piece of petrified wood provided evidence of lush days long gone, and shards of pottery presented tantalizing signs of human activity. Nonetheless, four graves dug into the hardpan lakebed were a reminder to all of the unforgiving nature of The Empty Quarter. The next morning, it was on to Bir Um Al-Hadid — the Well of the Mother of Iron. As the team crested the final dune overlooking the well, they looked on as a water tanker was being filled with precious water from deep underground. Peering into the well, one could only imagine the courage, strength and determination it must have taken to have dug so deeply into the earth with only a hope that water would be struck. The water operation was overseen by the youthful eye of 88-year-old Faraj Talib Al-Hulayal Al-Marri who tended the well. Al-Marri and his son came to the campsite that evening for dinner. He not only shared wonderful stories of his own, but he also brought a container of fresh camel milk for all to enjoy. The graciousness and respect of the Bedouin the team met throughout the journey were as vast as the desert itself. The team headed on to its final destination, the Um Al-Hadid meteorite crater and the final campsite. When they arrived shortly before sunset, the team experienced a profound moment of satisfaction. They had successfully and safely achieved a difficult objective under the guidance of a gracious and determined leader with the help of a dedicated team and the strength of their steady mounts in an environment both stunning and desolate. Few moments in life can be so fulfilling. After celebrations the next morning that included being thankful to God, then breaking into impromptu dance and songs, the team headed to the crater. One couldn't help but be humbled by the power of what had transpired. A mighty meteor from the sky had once lit up the night, gouging a path into the earth and leaving a trail of glass fired from the sands in its wake. Given the combination of a heavenly body wreaking havoc on this immense sea of sand, one couldn't help but reflect that mankind is only a minuscule part of an immeasurable universe and master plan that is constantly unfolding around us. After the trip, Fahad Al-Daajani reflected on his experience in a presentation to a delegation from Harvard University that was visiting Saudi Arabia. "My father always told me stories from the early days, but I could never quite relate to them. Now, I understand what he was saying and better understand where I come from," he said. For this young man, Al-Hajri's dream of reconnecting with the past had indeed been achieved.