The world’s underappreciated staple

I keep many different types of rice on my pantry shelves: lots of basmati (both white and brown), medium-grain brown rice, red rice from Bhutan and Chinese black “forbidden” rice, which is really purple. Dig deeper into the back shelves, and you’ll find starchy Spanish rice, Italian arborio rice (for risotto) and jasmine rice from Thailand. Rice has a long storage life — indeed, in some cultures older rice, such as basmati, is prized. But like flour, rice will attract grain moths if left sitting around for too long, and I like to get to it before they do. Rice is a thoroughly sustaining food. According to Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid in "Seductions of Rice," a beautiful, well researched survey of rice traditions around the world , “Rice has the highest protein digestibility and energy digestibility among all the staple foods.” In most rice-consuming cultures, rice is supplemented with vegetables and legumes, small amounts of meat and fish, and oil. I don’t share the current national aversion to white rice. True, nutritionists prefer brown rice because the high fiber content slows down the carbohydrate absorption rate. But you can get the same benefit by combining rice with high-fiber vegetables and legumes. Mr. Alford and Ms. Duguid make another interesting point about the nutritional quality of brown rice: “It is true that brown rice has more calcium and iron as well as higher protein levels and significantly more of the B vitamins [and] more fiber than white rice. But brown rice is less digestible than white . . . rice. The aleurone layer and embryo, still present in brown rice, contain phytate phosphorus, which seems to interfere with the absorption of calcium, zinc, and iron.” Bottom line: if you prefer white rice, just make sure you’re also eating lots of vegetables or beans with it. Basic Steamed Long-Grain Rice Rice can be cooked many ways, but here’s the technique that I find to be most reliable. Combine the rice with water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover tightly and simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes. Once the water has evaporated from the pot, place a towel between the lid of the pot and the rice, and let it sit for ten minutes to absorb more moisture and steam. The amount of liquid you choose to use will affect the texture of your rice. A 2-to-1 ratio, liquid to rice, produces soft, tender rice. Chewier rice will result from using a 1-to-1 ratio, or from adding a bit more water. I usually go with a 2-to-1 ratio for cooking a long-grain rice like basmati. Traditionally, basmati rice first is soaked for 30 minutes to as long as two hours. The grains are brittle, but if they absorb a little water they are less likely to break while cooking. Still, I have to admit that there are many times that I don’t soak my basmati rice — and I can’t really tell the difference. 1 cup basmati or long-grain rice 1 1/2 to 2 cups water 1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste) 1. Place the rice in a bowl in the sink, and rinse and drain several times with water, until the water runs clear. If using basmati rice, soak for 30 minutes. Drain over a bowl, and measure out 1 1/2 to 2 cups water. 2. Combine the water, rice and salt in a heavy 2- or 3-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until all of the liquid has been absorbed. 3. Uncover the rice, and place a clean kitchen towel over the top of the pan (it should not be touching the rice). Replace the lid, and allow to sit for ten minutes undisturbed. Serve. Variations: * Here is a typically Middle Eastern way to prepare pilaf. Proceed with step 1 as instructed. Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons butter or oil in a heavy 2- or 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup finely chopped onion if desired, and cook, stirring, until it begins to soften, about three minutes. Add the rice, and cook, stirring, for two to three minutes, until the rice is sizzling and the grains are separate. Add the water and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Proceed with step 3. * Substitute chicken or vegetable stock for the water. Yield: People who eat rice as a staple cook a lot more than one cup at a time and may eat up to 1/2 pound at one sitting, according to Mr. Alford and Ms. Duguid. They usually cook 3 cups of rice for four people and still have leftovers. Each type of rice yields a different amount when cooked. Basmati expands to three times its original volume, so one cup of rice would feed four people if eaten as a side dish. If rice is at the center of your plate, however, 1 cup would feed two people, with perhaps a little left over. Advance preparation: Rice can be cooked ahead and reheated. One you have followed the recipe through step 3, spread the rice in a lightly oiled 2-quart baking dish and allow to cool completely, uncovered. To reheat, cover with foil and place in a 325-degree oven for 20 minutes.