A nationwide water fight steeped in tradition

For many foreigners the idea of a nationwide water fight seems incredible and many are drawn from across the globe for one of the most spectacular celebrations on earth. For the Laos however, the Lao New Year or "Pi Mai Lao" is an expression of a deep connection with their religion and culture. At temples, street corners, homes and businesses it's impossible to escape being doused in water and covered in flour as a blessing for the New Year. Trucks with trays filled with water drive through the city spraying water at people celebrating on the streets. Pi Mai Lao is one of the most important events on the Lao calendar. Every year on April 14-16 people across the country burst into celebration. The first day is called Sangkhan Luang, the last day of the previous year. The second day is called Sangkhan Nao and belongs to neither the previous nor the New Year. The last day is Sangkhan Kheun which this year marks the beginning of the Lao year 2557. On the riverbank and in temples the devout people make large sand stupas and decorate them with colorful flags, food and money. In homes and temples people hold Baci ceremonies and tie white string around the wrists of friends and family to honor their elders and gift merit for the year to come. Throughout Vientiane there is a buzz of activity. A performance stage has been erected by the riverside to showcase Lao musicians underneath a suspended system of sprinklers to bless the dancing crowd. The temples, called wats, are full of families and people of all ages. Celebratory events showcase not only the richness and diversity of Lao culture but also the kind inclusion of inquisitive foreigners. "For Pi Mai Lao there is a story," said novice monk Sommith who teaches foreigners meditation at the revered Wat Sokpaluang. "Many years ago there is the king deity Kabinlaphrom who has seven daughters and four faces. One day there is a very smart and wise boy, Thammaban Kuman, who understands the bird language. Kabinlaphrom invites Thammaban to visit and asks him what part of the human body shines in the morning, in the evening and at nightfall. If Thammaban cannot answer the question he will lose his head, but if he gets the question correct, then the deity Kabinlaphrom will lose his head and forfeit his kingdom instead. Thammaban asks for seven days to think of the answer," said Sommith. "So after six days Thammaban cannot think of the answer to Kabinlaphrom's riddle and he goes into the forest to sit under a tree. In the tree there are two birds talking to each other. The boy bird asks what will we eat for tomorrow. The girl bird says we can eat Thammaban tomorrow, as he will not be able to answer Kabinlaphrom's riddle. "The girl bird continues by saying that the answer to the riddle is quite easy - in the morning you wash your face as you wake up, in the afternoon you wash your body as it gets quite hot, and in the evening before you go to bed you will wash your feet. "Thammaban, knowing the language of the birds, is excited that he may keep his life, and runs back to speak with Kabinlaphrom. "Kabinlaphrom is surprised that Thammaban has found the correct answer. But he warns that since his head is incredibly hot, it will cause problems. If his head falls to earth, the earth will scorch. If it goes up into the air there will be no rain. If it goes into the river, the river will dry up. "So he orders his daughters to carry his head across the heavens and keep it in a cave inside a mountain. Each year the ceremony of pouring water on the head would be performed by one of the seven daughters in order to avoid cataclysm," Sommith said. In a parade down Vientiane's main street, seven women mount a float. The seven women represent the seven daughters of Kabinlaphrom. As Pi Mai falls on a Monday this year, one of the women sits upon a giant tiger carrying a small short sword and walking cane to represent the daughter Khorak. On the front of the float sits a replica of the four-faced head of Kabinlaphrom which will remain in the care of the chosen daughter until the next Pi Mai. While water splashing to honor the memory of Kabinlaphrom and the making of sand stupas to symbolize the mountain in which his head was kept may baffle foreign visitors, it is clear that the Lao people hold the meaning of Pi Mai close to their hearts. If someone should douse you with water during your visit to Laos you should smile and wish a lucky new year, for you have just been blessed.