London - Arabstoday
For Paul Smith Spring Summer 2012 the mainline collection has a minimal and classic aesthetic, drawing inspiration from traditional workwear but reinterpreted to create modern, elegant shapes. The palette is inspired by a singular colour; navy blue. Tones from midnight blue to Yves Klein blue are seen throughout the collection, punctuated only by brief shades of terracotta, coral, light grey marl and flat slate grey. Prints are bright, bold and graphic, providing a sharp punctuation of colour to the dominant navy blue palette. The silhouette is sharp; workwear inspired box shaped jackets with neat shoulders are seen alongside short, slim workers’ smocks with extreme drop shoulders. Trouser shapes are simple; a singular pleat is completed with a tapered leg. Soft luxurious fabrics encourage layering in the collection; a simple elegant blazer is covered with a long reversible overcoat or a trench. Details and benchmarks of traditional workwear have been reinterpreted. Fabrics have been remade in luxurious yarns, creating a breathable and durable fabric, but with a soft handle and drape. The traditional interior detailing of work jackets has been brought to the exterior, mixing laser guided stitching with hand finishing to create a lightweight construction. Collars are either removed or stitched down and, when combined with large patch pockets, create a distinctly utilitarian sensibility to the collection.