The lushly forested Pitons overlook the Caribbean sea Admittedly, the idea of visiting the world’s only drive-in volcano appeared to have hazardous potential.As the refreshing aroma of the rainforest melts away, it is replaced by the none-too-pleasant smell of sulphur, an odour similar to that of rotten eggs, and one that could be detected for miles.
But we soon learn that it is nothing to turn our noses up at - the locals believe that if the smell and steam from Saint Lucia’s Sulphur Springs stop, the dormant volcano will erupt.
Luckily, the only pressure that builds up during my visit to this most diminutive of Caribbean islands is created by a masseuse as she firmly kneads my left calf.
Saint Lucia has the obligatory sandy beaches and palm trees that are abundant in this part of the world but its other selling point is the lush natural beauty offered up by, not least, the mighty Piton mountains.
From Hewanorra International Airport, we are whisked through coconut groves, banana plantations and winding hillside roads from Vieux Fort to the hills of Jalousie and Ladera, a romantic resort that resides on a mountain ridge 1,100 feet above sea level.
Ladera features treehouse-style eco-lodges, all built with just three walls - the fourth is the scenery,  which spoils guests with unobstructed views of the Pitons, the Soufriere Valley and the Caribbean Sea beyond.
The outside is invited inside and at times, our lodge resembles a real-life Disney movie, as hummingbirds, bullfinches and other winged creatures hover near the plunge pool overlooking the forest.  
And after dark, the tiniest of tree frogs and lizards put in the odd ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ appearance. ‘They’re harmless!’ I reassure my wife, whose phobia of pests (particularly rodents) is so bad she can’t even look Stuart Little in the eye.
With no agenda except to relax, recharge, and eat, we head to restaurant Dasheene which, like the rest of the resort, sits discreetly on the hillside, and we settle down to a meal accompanied by candlelight and a starry sky.
We feast on the restaurant’s gourmet renderings of local dishes using locally sourced ingredients, which include tropical \'lady poulet\' - chicken breast marinated with cinnamon spice. We also tackle the Dasheene Lucian lamb curry - rack of lamb with coconut risotto, before attempting to work off the excess with a slow walk back to our lodge.
There\'s more to do than just lazing on the beach and not far away from the springs, Hotwire Rides in
Soufriere offers a zipwire tour which sees thrill-seekers speed through a forest canopy of banyan, coconut and mango trees.
More managed greenery can be found at the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, which contains specimens of all the island’s plants and flowers. There is also the spectacularly colourful waterfall from which the gardens take their name, a result of minerals that lace the water.
Testament to its otherworldly nature, Superman 2 was filmed here.
After a few blissful days at Ladera, we travel north to Anse-La-Raye, home to Ti Kaye Village, a resort of red-roofed cottages set among 15 acres of land and overlooking the volcanic black sands of Anse Cochon.
Our cottage is called ‘DouDou’ - Creole for sweetheart - and we enjoyed a private plunge pool and a garden shower open to the heavens.
Ti Kaye is to the ocean what Ladera is to the hills and rainforest and so we manage to sneak in some time languishing on the volcanic beach, stirring only for cocktails and plantain chips.
When our stomachs echo the roar of the sea, luckily food is never far away.
Restaurant Kai Manje is just feet from the ocean and offers more Creole fare, with many of the herbs and spices used plucked from the resort’s grounds.
One of the high points of our stay is a tour of the hotel’s underground wine cellar - which has one of the largest collections in the Caribbean.
Its enthusiastic sommelier Cleus has a spectacular knowledge of all things wine-related.
We also venture into the island’s capital, Castries, for shopping and a visit to the interactive visitors\' centre Our Planet, which educates visitors about the efforts needed to preserve the island\'s environment.
The year-round attraction\'s highlight is a special effects theatre show which allows visitors to experience the kind of extreme weather sometimes seen on the island, such as tropical storms and hurricanes.
A snow machine also recreates the kind of fantasy conditions Saint Lucians never see. Thankfully, the volcano simulator is nowhere to be seen.