Almost four years after being banished from the Paris fashion world over an anti-Semitic rant, designer John Galliano made his comeback in London for Maison Margiela on Monday to overwhelming critical acclaim.
The 54-year-old, seen as one of the most brilliant fashion talents of his generation, was sacked by Dior in 2011 after being filmed delivering a drunken tirade in a Paris bar.
He has kept a low profile since and some say they will never forgive his remarks, but Maison Margiela gave him a second chance by appointing him creative director in October.
The collection blended his flamboyant, theatrical style and the brand's more minimalist look.
His comeback was attended by some of fashion's biggest names, including supermodel Kate Moss, Anna Wintour, the editor of US Vogue, and celebrity shoe designer Manolo Blahnik.
"I thought the show was sensational," British fashion editor Hilary Alexander said after the catwalk.
"It's what we've been missing. It was John Galliano at his absolute peak of perfection, combining the skills of a fabulous atelier with his own very romantic and fantastical vision."
Burberry's chief executive Christopher Bailey said the show was "magical", while Blahnik told reporters: "Fabulous! I'm glad he's working again."
Alexandra Shulman, editor-in-chief of British Vogue, said the collection was a "template".
"You couldn't really look at it exactly for the clothes, it was more to give the spirit of what he wanted to do," she said.
The announcement that Galliano's first show would take place in London, the city where he trained and made his name, was seen in some circles as a snub to Paris, the home of haute couture.
The collection was subsequently dropped from the Paris couture calendar at the end of January, although it will be shown by appointment.
"It was beautifully done and you remember what a talent he is," said Natalie Massenet, chairman of the British Fashion Council and founder of online